Tuesday, May 15, 2007

Potpourri

I've meant to put up several posts, but have relied on the stop gap pickle post to keep Adam off my back. So today I'm throwing them all into this grab bag.

First off, Happy Mothers Day! For those of you who know my mom, you may not know that she is leaving FPU, after something close to 30 years. She was offered a job at Quiring, and although she was not looking for a new job, she has decided that it is an exciting opportunity, a new challenge, and all that sort of thing. She will be switching at the end of the month, so if you are around the school swing by and congratulate her.

Another exciting thing in my life is that the wheel of my car almost fell off yesterday. I've heard a clunk recently, so I was planning on taking the car in for service. as I left work yesterday I turned onto a major street, and the car continued turning on its own. At first I thought it was a rut in the road, because I was able to straighten out and keep going. However it soon became clear something was terribly wrong, the car seems to bob around on its own, and when I put the break on it would swerve to the right. I slowly limped back to work and took the bus home. Today a tow truck carted it away, but not before the driver pointed out the unnatural angle of the wheel, and the lack of a bolt that should have held it in place. I know nothing about cars, but it looked like the sort of problem that, had it occurred at high speed on the freeway, would have sent me careening all over the place.

But on to something tastier...

This weekend my roommate Brendan threw a party (which involved creating a fire pit in the backyard) and so I decided it was time to test out a dessert recipe. In honor of the rustic nature of our new fire pit, essentially a hole dug in the grass ringed with bricks, I went with a rustic baked custard called clafouti.

Traditionally clafouti should have cherries, but I don't like cherry, and I had a recipe for apple clafouti. Let me tell you it was delicious, and it smells wonderful. This is the first time I have used a whole vanilla bean... I'm not sure I can go back to the liquid. The best part about this simple dish is that you saute the apples, then throw in the vanilla and sugar, so the kitchen is infused with the earthiest, sweetest smell, people kept coming in to trace it to the source. the second best part is that you make the whole thing in a cast iron skillet, so after you saute the apple and vanilla, you just pour the custard over and chuck it in the oven.

Clafouti also gave me a reason to finally try creme fraiche, a european sour cream closer to buttermilk or half and half. It doesn't have the cloying sweetness of whipped cream, although theoretically it can be whipped in a similar fashion.

I cannot recommend Clafouti enough! It is my kind of dessert, not too sweat, but with an understated richness. The recipe (below) calls for grappa or fruit brandy, neither of which we have. I used a spanish sherry, Amantillado. I was happy with the results, so I'm not rushing out for grappa. Also, I didn't follow the instructions about pouring the batter through a sieve, I don't have one, and I wasn't to concerned about a few lumps, it was meant to be rustic right? The only thing I would change is to maybe sprinkle some demerara sugar on the top before baking, I think the crunch might be a nice contrast to the baked custard.

Apple Clafouti (from Michael Chiarello)

Ingredients
Batter:
1/2 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
1/3 cup plus 2 teaspoons granulated sugar
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
Pinch of salt
3 eggs plus 1 egg yolk
1 cup milk

Apples:
1/4 vanilla bean, split lengthwise
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 1/2 cups peeled and diced Granny Smith apple (1/2-inch dice; about 1 large apple)
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 teaspoon grappa, Calvados, or other fruit brandy
Confectioners' sugar for dusting
1/3 cup creme fraiche

Directions
Preheat the oven to 400oF.
Make the batter: Sift the flour, granulated sugar, cinnamon and salt into a bowl. In a separate bowl, whisk the eggs, egg yolk, and milk until well blended. Add about one-third of the egg mixture to the flour mixture and whisk to form a paste, then gradually incorporate the remaining egg mixture. Whisk until well blended.

Cook the apples: With the tip of a knife, scrape the vanilla bean seeds from the pod into an ovenproof 10-inch cast-iron or stainless-steel skillet. Add the pod and the butter and cook over moderately high heat until the butter turns nut brown. Add the apple and cook, stirring often, for about 3 minutes to soften them. Remove the vanilla bean pod and discard. Sprinkle the apples with the granulated sugar, reduce the heat to moderately low, and cook until the apples are about three-fourths done and the sugar has melted and is coating the apples in a light syrup. Add the grappa or other brandy, swirl the pan briefly, then spread the fruit evenly in the pan.
Remove the pan from the heat. Working quickly, pour the batter through a sieve evenly over the fruit.
Bake until the edges of the clafouti are puffed and browned and the center is set, about 15 minutes. Remove from the oven. Put some confectioners' sugar in a sieve and generously dust the surface of the clafouti. Serve warm directly from the pan with a dollop of creme fraiche.

7 comments:

Unknown said...

Dude that lives with me always mocks Michael Chiarello. It's the whole Wine Country thing that threatens his masculinity, I guess, but any time I catch that show, I can count on him coming in and saying something about how fancy he is (not what he does, but him personally).

I think he's (chiarello) married and has had his kids on the show, but that apparently doesn't mean anything.

It's a funny thing when one's brand of homophobia involves watching food network all the time and mocking certain cooking shows as gay.

Anyway, the clafouti looks awesome. I do love a culinary challenge... And isn't cast-iron the best? I have a skillet and a dutch oven, neither of which I paid for (proud of that), and they both come in handy all the time.

Congrats on not crashing and living to cook another day!

Anonymous said...

Chiarello really seems to rub people one way or the other. We have a friend who positively despises him for the exact same reasons Jay's does. I love the whole Napa-style thing, love his focus on food that is seasonal and local. He's on his second marriage and he does occasionally have his own kids on the show. He was also raised in Turlock (why do I know all of this?).

I've made a few things from the Tre Vigne cookbook, and everything's always been amazing. I haven't tried any desserts yet, but after seeing the clafouti I'm going to have to plan something. www.napastyle.com has quite a few recipes of his, as well as a whole bunch of other stuff (love the catalog :)

Adam said...

Classic Justin fending off people with pickles.

Adam said...

Also,

Preheat the oven to 400oF.

I thought this said 4000F, but I was wrong.

edluv said...

justin's best defense is a fork

edluv said...

and, no, i'm not saying he's far or eats a lot.

Adam said...

I know what you're referencing, the old four-tine defense system, carefully tucked away in the messenger bag. Funny story.